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The Original "Kandlefish" TM/R
Kandlefish (K-Fish) Tech Guide |
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Background: The design and development of the record-setting Kandlefish is the result of over 50 years of fishing
knowledge and experience in the quest for a consistently more-productive
fishing lure. The development of the metal jig (a.k.a. "jigging
spoon") changed my life forever! As a biologist, and lure designer,
many of my fishing years were spent as a licensed guide across North
America's fresh and salt water. A few locations include Alaska, Canada,
the Great Lakes, Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific Northwest. The
versatility, and action, of the Kandlefish enables
it to literally catch any fresh or salt water fish around the world that
feeds on baitfish. Never worry about the availability, and cost, of
natural, or synthetic, bait again. There is no other lure type that can
out-fish a metal jig in so many different environments! A properly
designed, and engineered, full bodied metal jig comes closest to
imitating a crippled baitfish. Unlike all other types of fishing
lures, the primary strike-triggering actions, of flutter & vibration, are
built into the Kandlefish as it falls
through the water column. A prime example is
"dead-sticking" where the Kandlefish
actually has more natural injured baitfish action on the fall, than a real
baitfish, without working the rod. Kandlefish
are exclusively equipped with tail-attached siwash-style
single hooks with their deep throat and wide gap for exceptional landing
success after the hook set. Nose-assist hooks, and treble hooks, are
not used because they reduce the action, effectiveness and versatility of a
metal jig. Our mission, through this tech guide, is to increase your
knowledge of the Kandlefish and, most importantly,
your success and enjoyment on the water. Important tips will be
repeated throughout this guide. |
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Introduction: The Kandlefish is a natural reproduction of the candlefish, a
member of the smelt family. Its long, slender profile shape is highly prized
by game fish around the world in both fresh and salt water. Its lively
action, and deadly sonic vibration, imitates the frantic and erratic action
of many other species of injured baitfish such as anchovies, herring,
needlefish, sand lance, ballyhoo, sardines and shiners. Its wide range
of sizes enables the Kandlefish to be effectively
fished from the surface down to 300 feet. It is extremely versatile and
is the only lure-type that can be cast, jigged, swum or trolled.
When cast, or jigged, most strikes will occur on the fall. The K-Fish
has a swimming-darting action on the retrieve, or when trolled, and a
strike-triggering erratic fluttering, darting, vibrating and gliding action
on the fall. Practice with your Kandlefish in
calm, clear water to become familiar with its action. |
Techniques:
CASTING:
Spinning tackle is most effective
when targeting fish in shallow water or when casting to fish feeding near
surface in deeper water or when highly- suspended in deeper water. The
retrieve can either be continuous or with a lift-drop rod action to give the
lure a swim-flutter action.
To maximize the strike-triggering
downward flutter of your lure, always lift your rod vertically from about a 9 to 11 o'clock position...never sideways as sideways
has no lift. Cast crosscurrent, or with the current, when fishing
over a snag-free bottom. The water movement against the Kandlefish creates a livelier & natural action as the
lure flutters downward through the flowing water column. This is
extremely effective especially in moving saltwater and rivers. A salt
water example is casting perpendicular, or parallel, to kelp beds on a taut
line along the Pacific Coast, including Alaska & British Columbia.
The lure, falling on a tight line vs a slack line, has more action because of
the water resistance that is created against the lure...this resultant lure
action is deadly!) When drift-casting to rocky structure, cast
straight (never cast sideways over snaggy bottom)
into the direction of your boat's drift for best line control and telegraphing
bottom structure. For deadly results, methodically bottom-bounce the lure
through the rocky structure back to the boat. This method results in
rarely spooking fish and being able to retrieve your lure, if snagged, as your
boat passes over the snag. TIP: Do not fish out of control when
casting. Prevent bows in your main line that are mainly caused by side
wind. By not keeping a fairly tight line, many strikes will be
missed. It is impossible to finesse-jig structure, on a loose line &
with monofilament line, that prevents you from feeling
the lure working against & through the structure where most fish are
located! Solution...Cast downwind (with the wind) and only fish
with braided line. When at anchor in the wind, always cast off the stern,
as it's facing downwind...NEVER SIDEWAYS. Note...This applies
anywhere whether on land or water.
When casting to surface-feeding
fish, such as Spanish or king mackerel, mahi-mahi or coho
salmon, strikes can be savage and the action non-stop. 1/4, 1/3 & 1/2
oz silver K-Fish are excellent choices in this
situation. Conversely, a bottom-bounced K-Fish is most effective when
fish are positioned on or near bottom. Except for long distance
surfcasting or ultra light outfits, a good all around rod choice is a medium, or med.-heavy, 6 to 6 1/2 footer with a fast-action tip. Spool the
reel with 12-17 lb. braided line (lighter line results in longer casts)
attached to about 2 ft of clear or fluorocarbon
leader. Add a swivel (between the leader and main line), or snap swivel
(to the lure), if line twist becomes a problem. "Deadsticking": This term is used for a passive
form of casting and can be very effective under the right conditions...a)
Moving water; b) A large school of baitfish; c) Diving birds; d) Predator fish
actively feeding on those baitfish. This technique is especially
effective next to shoreline structure such as kelp & weed beds,
islands, walls and rip rap. Water current, and wind, drive concentrations
of baitfish against these structures, which in turn attract the predator
fish. Once the lure hits bottom in shallower water, try jigging it back
to you. Otherwise, speed-retrieve and repeat your cast. Simply cast
the smallest (smaller lures suspend longer than larger lures) K-Fish to
reach your target, which should be slightly beyond, and upcurrent,
to the feeding fish. As soon as your lure hits the water engage your reel
and hold your rod tip at 10-11 o'clock, on a tight line, with just an
occasional slow lift and drop. This causes the lure to fall slower
through the water column with more sonic vibration and a flashing, erratic
flutter that gamefish find hard to resist! In most cases, the fish will
hook itself because it hit a small, lightweight lure on tight line. 5 1/2
to 6 1/2 ft ultra light
spinning outfits are a joy to use on smaller fish under 10 pounds. Spool
with 8-10 pound no-stretch braided line for superb casting and hook-sets.
(The G. Loomis "SJR 720/6 ft Mag-Light"
spinning rod is a superb finesse rod with power.)
VERTICAL JIGGING:
This is consistently the most
productive of all artificial lure presentations available in sport and
commercial fishing. The reason is twofold...a) the fluttering action of
the lure as it falls (a basic trigger that causes fish to strike) and b) the
lure remains in the strike zone far-longer than that of any other
presentation. Please remember this very important analogy. Which is
more effective? Casting to fish next to structure (i.e. a dock or bridge)
versus vertical jigging while on this same structure? Vertical jigging
will always beat casting because the lure constantly remains in the strike
zone. In comparison, a cast lure quickly passes through that critical
strike zone. Vertical jigging can actually provoke neutral or negative
fish into biting. This is the only technique that also permits you to
precisely fish in hard-to-reach places such as around dock, pier and bridge
pilings, in kelp & weed pockets and timber. Vertical jigging's basic
principle is, the more vertical your line, the better the lure action which
results in more strikes and better hook-sets. Conversely,
the more the line angle the less the lift of the lure. It's the
critical LIFT of the lure that positions it for its strike-triggering action on
the fall. Spinning tackle generally operates best down to no deeper
than 75 ft. and baitcasting tackle is best beyond
that. Baitcasters are far-more effective for
line control when jigging to suspended fish and for bottom bouncing. (Levelwind reels: Predetermine the amount of line that
spools off your reel when the level guide moves from one side to the
other. You will now be able to effectively reach suspended fish by using
the levelwind as your depth gauge. Also,
fishing with metered braided line, with different coloration every 25 feet, is
excellent for positioning your lure to suspended fish in deeper water.)
Line selection is critical especially in deeper water. For superior
hook-sets and sensitivity, with less line drag on a drift, use no-stretch
braided line and not monofilament. Mono's diameter is much greater
than braid. This creates considerably more drag on the drift and reduces
the time the jig can remain fishing near bottom. Rod lifts range between 7 and
10 o'clock. Since vertical jigging can be used for most fish around the
world, rod selection is dependent on fish species and water depth. Larger
fish, and deeper water, require the use of rods with heavier backbone and
heavier jigs. Vary your presentation until the fish respond to the one
they prefer.
TIP
#1: Since the K-Fish is loaded
with built-in action, it is not necessary nor recommended that you jig with
hard jerks. This spooks many fish species. Even in extreme depths,
forceful jigging is not required especially when using braided line. Thinner
line results in truer action and more fishable depth. Remember,
the K-Fish is designed for maximum action with little effort and swims very
effectively when not jigged while drifting. Fish eagerly strike the
swimming action of the Kandlefish.
TIP
#2: FOR RETRIEVING, AFTER
JIGGING, TO SUSPENDED FISH IN DEEP WATER (50-300 FT): Once your
line angles off, and out of the strike zone, speed-retrieve your K-Fish back to
the boat. At times, this will trigger a strike as the lure
"frantically swims" through a school of suspended fish. This is
very effective on many saltwater species including salmon and tuna.
CRITICAL
TIP FOR DRIFT-JIGGING TO FISH LOCATED ON BOTTOM WHEN CONDITIONS ARE NOT
IDEAL. THESE INCLUDE: FAST DRIFTS, DEEP WATER (50-300 FT) AND COLD WATER
(JUST AFTER ICE OUT):
This applies to both spinning and baitcasting tackle
and is similar to when casting to rocky structure, as described above under casting.
The bottom can be rocky or smooth. The critical point here is that you
must slow-down the action of the lure to attract neutral/negative fish.
This can be achieved by casting your jig directly into the direction that your
boat is headed. After the lure reaches bottom, jig it back to the boat
while bouncing it against bottom on a tight line. The speed of your
retrieve, and rod lifts, will be directly proportional to the drift speed of
the boat...the slower the drift, the less hurried your presentation.
As long as you can feel bottom, and keep slack line to a
minimum, strikes should be frequent. This is especially true, as the
line angle becomes vertical as the boat is passing over your jig. (TIP...Do not
retrieve the K-Fish once the boat passes over, and beyond, the lure. As
long as it remains close to bottom, permit the K-Fish to swim instead of being
bottom-bounced. At times, just dragging the lure near bottom, and
letting it swim, fish will aggressively attack the K-Fish. Retrieve once
any feeling of bottom structure is lost.) The best location on the boat
is at the bow or stern. Deadly on freshwater species
such as kokanee, lake trout and walleye. Record saltwater catches
include cod, striped bass, grouper, snapper, snook,
tarpon, Chinook/coho salmon, halibut, lingcod and
rockfish.
ICE JIGGING:
This is the most subtle form of
vertical jigging in which K-Fish can be used as the primary lure or as an
attractor. Jig with the smallest lure that effectively reaches your
target. When used as a primary lure, replace the single hook with a
fine-wire treble hook and tip with bait of your choice (a fine wire treble hook
can also be added to the wire eyelet on the nose). When used as an
attractor, remove the hook & split ring from the tail portion. Attach
a 2 inch long, 4-6 lb. fluorocarbon leader directly to the tail wire then add
your bait or lure to the loose end. Snap jigging, and bottom bouncing,
the primary lure will attract fish. But, it's the subtle presentation of
working the lure with very short lifts, twitches and pauses that result in most
strikes. (Slow and deliberate is how the fish respond in their icy
environment. So should you with your presentation.) Deadly on many
species including perch, walleye, kokanee, rainbow, cutthroat and lake
trout. Effective finishes include gold GLD), chartreuse/white pearl
(CWP), all glow (BLG), lime/white pearl (LWP) & gold/glow white (GGW).
TROLLING:
The K-Fish can effectively be fished
off downriggers, divers, planner boards and when flat-lining. It is very
effective when trolled behind a downrigger, by itself or behind a flasher or
dodger. Trolling a Kandlefish behind a flasher or
dodger may reduce its strike-triggering darting action. (Tip: Test the action
by running your set-up, in full view, alongside your moving boat). I use
divers with great success because they take the K-Fish down to an estimated
depth without reducing the darting action. My personal favorite divers
are a 000 "Deep Six" and a 040 "Jet Diver". These two
sizes will take my K-Fish down to a maximum of 40 feet. Trolling with metered
Suffix braided line simplifies this technique because of its different colors
every 25 feet. Generally, if you need your diver to descend to the 40 ft depth, twice that amount of line (80 ft)
must be released from your reel. Larger divers are used for greater depths.
Whatever method is used, it is important to attach a quality ball bearing
swivel, between the mainline and leader, to prevent line twist. Unlike
conventional spoons and other trolling lures, the K-Fish's basic
strike-triggering action is in its lively darting from side-to-side, imitating
a baitfish attempting to elude a trailing predator fish. Basically,
the more often your lure "hesitates" and flutters downward, the more
the likelihood of a strike. Whether slow or speed-trolling, vary your
speed and do not run in a straight line. As with jigging, the downward
flutter is critical when applied to slower trolling speeds. To significantly
increase your strikes, slow-pump your rod while on a slow troll to permit the
jig to periodically hesitate then flutter downward. Since it is difficult
to fish with a hand-held rod when speed trolling, run a zigzag course to change
the jig's action. This is very effective for marine species such as
barracuda, mackerel and wahoo. Your top speed is dependent upon the lure
not skipping on the surface unless when speed-trolling a 3 1/2 or 4 1/2 oz
K-Fish for
albacore tuna. Look for diving gulls and
other surface activity to eliminate trolling blindly. Also, locate wrecks
that are holding fish near the surface. For explosive excitement, it is
hard to beat the savage strike of a 25-40 pound barracuda as it engulfs a
speed-trolled K-Fish. Barracuda, in large schools, become very
competitive, as do most other species. Days of 50-100 hook-ups are not
uncommon in this situation. Most strikes will occur on the K-Fish that is
on the inside turn. The inside lure hesitates and flutters downward while
the outside lure speeds up without any hesitation. The 1,
1 1/2 & 2 oz
K-Fish are excellent speed-trolling sizes. Always use colored wire leader
to avoid cut-offs from sharp-toothed predator fish. TIPS: Speed...SLOW (up to 2 mph) good for kokanee, chinook & coho salmon (for kokanee, troll with the 1/6 or 1/4 oz sizes in the fluorescent chartreuse/white pearl finish
(CWP)... deadly off a downrigger. MODERATE (3-6 MPH)
good for barracuda and mackerel. FAST (7-10 mph)
good for albacore and wahoo. Trolling sizes...SLOW...For
other than kokanee, 1/3, 1/2 & 3/4 ozs.
MODERATE...1, 1 1/2 & 2 ozs. FAST...2 1/2 -
4 1/2 ozs. Finishes...The
glow-in-the-dark / all glow (BLG), and fluorescent lime back/white glow belly
(LWG) finishes are very effective during low light periods and is especially
deadly within three hours after sun-up while flat-line trolling for
light-sensitive species such as salmon. Sun eventually causes salmon to
seek deeper water. At that time, troll deeper and switch to UV white
pearl (WP) or UV chartreuse/white pearl (CWP). TIP: At times, the
two-sided finishes can be effectively fished all day long because of its unique
finish design. A deadly combination of silver on the front side, and a
bio-luminescent glow on the back side, should be in every serious angler's
tackle arsenal. The silver side works great on bright days and the glow
side catches fish on cloudy & rainy days...no need to change lure finishes
to accommodate weather changes. ROTATING FLASHERS: Attach a 3/4 or 1 oz Kandlefish 18-24 inches behind
your flasher. This is highly effective off a weighted flat line or
downrigger. Over two decades of comparison tests have shown that the
K-Fish will consistently outfish traditional flies,
plastic squid and even natural bait. DODGERS: Rig the same as a
flasher. Troll faster for coho salmon and
slower, and deeper, for chinook salmon.
DOWNRIGGERS (Portions purposely repeated from trolling section): Water clarity
and type of fish species determine lure size, leader length and trolling
speed. The 1/6 & 1/4 oz sizes are effective
for kokanee and trout. The medium range of 1/3 –1 1/2 oz
sizes are effective for most other fresh and salt water species. NOTE:
Shorten your leader length for more lure action and just reverse for less lure
action. DIVERS: Luhr Jensen "Deep
Six", and "Jet Diver", work extremely well for lowering the Kandlefish in the water column. These divers are very
effective in helping the K-Fish to catch fish without investing in expensive
downriggers. Basically, the diver descends to about half of the mainline
released from the reel. For example, 100 feet of released braided line
permits the diver to take the Kandlefish down to 50
feet. TIP: Attaching a Kandlefish behind a
flasher, or dodger, may reduce the lively action of the Kandlefish.
Troll-test the Kandlefish within
sight of your boat, with and without the flasher, or dodger, to determine if
the lure's darting action is reduced. If the lively action of the Kandlefish is reduced by either attractor, do not use
it. Instead, attach the Kandlefish directly
behind the downrigger, or diver, without an attractor. Its unimpaired
lively action will act as its own attractor. IMPORTANT TROLLING TIP TO
INCREASE STRIKES: At times, adding a spinner blade to the back of the
hook can increase strikes, especially when trolling at faster speeds.
This increases its flash and harmonics. Never attach on the point side
since that would interfere with hook sets. Attach the blade with a snap
to the split ring or directly to the split ring (enlargement of the blade hole
may be necessary). Never attach a swivel to the blade since a
side-to-side reciprocal blade action is far more productive than a 360-degree
spin. Finally, do not extend the end of the blade much beyond the end of
the bend in the hook. A willow or Indiana blade, in a nickel-plated
finish, is usually the most productive attractor blade shape.
TIPS BEFORE
"WETTING YOUR LINE":
1)
Make certain your equipment is in good condition. This
starts with your towing vehicle and boat and ends with a properly sharpened
hook on your Kandlefish.
2)
Visualize how and where you plan to fish.
3) Don't fish blindly. Locate
bait or gamefish with your electronic fishfinder.
Look for diving birds and fish working near the surface. Refer to #14
under "general information".
4) Avoid poor conditions. These
include strong tides and wind, muddy or polluted water, erratic barometric
pressure and threatening weather.
GENERAL
INFORMATION:
1)
HOOKS. Treble hooks are not as strong as single hooks, especially
when targeting larger fish. When bottom-bouncing, treble hooks catch
debris and snag bottom easier. However, a fine wire treble hook is highly
recommended when ice jigging since it will penetrate the jaw, more easily, of
these typically light biters.
2)
BAIT. Under most conditions, it is not necessary to add bait to
your Kandlefish. The few exceptions for adding
scent are as follows: Unseasonably cold, or hot, fresh or salt
water. Fish are cold blooded. As a result, extreme water
temperatures drastically affect the comfort zone of fish and they become very
lethargic. Adding a piece of nightcrawler for
walleyes, or a small piece of shrimp, squid or cutbait
for grouper and snapper, almost always will dramatically increase your rate of
success. In difficult conditions, the sense of sight
(to the flash of the K-Fish), and the sense of sound (to the vibration of the
K-Fish), need to be combined with the sense of smell. All of the
essential strike-triggering qualities are engineered into the Kandlefish except scent. NOTE: Alaskan, and Pacific
Northwest fisheries, are not affected by pronounced
variations in water temperature as compared to the Gulf of Mexico or the Great
Lakes. As a result, adding bait is not necessary in Pacific waters.
However, in the Gulf of Mexico, water temperatures fluctuate almost 35 degrees
(57-92 degrees). Adding small pieces of bait to your Kandlefish,
when the water temperature drops below 70 degrees, is sometimes necessary when
jigging for grouper and snapper. Note...Adding bait will reduce the
lure's action. TEST: If strikes are few, add bait.
3)
DIRTY OR MUDDY WATER...These conditions should actually be avoided.
4)
ERRATIC BAROMETER...The very beginning of a falling barometer is
best. A very low, or high, reading results in poor fishing.
TIP: Stay home on very low readings. Vertical jig the deepest holes
you can find when the barometer is high.
5)
POOR TIDES...either too strong or no water movement at all.
Moderate tides are best, especially if it's incoming. This is especially
important when vertical jigging while anchored or drifting. Line angle is
very important. The more vertical your line results in better line
control, better jig action, better hook sets and better catches.
6)
STRIKES...can range between a light bump to a savage hit! Immediately
set the hook if in doubt. At times, slack will be created in your line as
the hooked fish swims rapidly toward you. In this case, quickly reel in
all of your slack before setting the hook.
7)
LINE CONTROL...It is important to minimize any bow (slack) in your line,
especially if monofilament mainline is used. No stretch, braided line
is highly recommended to detect strikes and for better hook-sets. To
eliminate a bow in your line cast directly up, or down, wind.
Never cast sideways to the wind
since it is almost impossible to feel a strike and set the hook with the
uncontrolled line that wind creates. Remember to combine line control
with a sharp hook. This is particularly important as your lure is erratically
fluttering downward and fish are attempting to strike it.
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NOTE: Except for trolling, braided
line technology has made fishing with monofilament mainline obsolete. The
advantages of braided line far-outnumber that of monofilament when casting and
jigging!
8)
LURE SIZE...Generally, use the smallest size
that effectively reaches the fish. This is especially important when the
fish are not active. Downsize your lure when the bite goes dead.
9)
SNAPS AND SWIVELS...Attaching a snap swivel to the Kandlefish
is not recommended unless when trolling. If line twist is a
problem, attach a wide bend snap (for maximum action), or a loop knot, to the
lure end of the leader. Then, attach a quality swivel to the other end
that connects the leader to the mainline. When casting, or jigging, a
snap or loop knot prevents killing the lure's action. This is caused by
overloading a lure with shock leader that does not match the size of that
lure. Tying directly to your lure is no problem as long as you match
light line to light lures.
10) LEADER...In clear water, fluorocarbon leader
is best with clear monofilament a distant second choice. Use longer, and
thinner, leader in clearer water. If cut-offs are a problem, from sharp
teeth, use single or multi-strand dark colored wire and swivels.
11)
MAINLINE...I'm being repetitious here because it's so important,
especially for deeper water jigging. The only choice, for serious
anglers, is no-stretch braided line. It's great for strength and hook
sets, casts further, telegraphs strikes & structure better, has minimal
twist when compared to mono and is about half the diameter of monofilament line
for less drag. Drag is the main culprit for your lure angling off
prematurely while stationary (on land or boat) or drifting.
12) RODS...A great majority of fishing can easily
be accomplished with rod lengths of 5 ½ – 6 ½ feet, especially when
jigging. Beyond that length, sensitivity & control is
reduced...directly proportional to the increased rod length. Whether fishing
with spinning or casting rods, good backbone is important for good
hook-sets. A basic guide is to select a rod that bends no more than half
way down from its rod tip. This can be determined by holding a rod by its
tip section with the rod parallel to the ground. The rod should be
light-weight but strong and sensitive with a fast action tip. A 6 or 6 ½
foot rod can handle many of the versatile techniques of the K-Fish.
Different power ratings range from mag-light to medium, med-heavy and
heavy. Avoid rods that bend all the way to the handle or are so heavy
that they do not bend at all. G. Loomis is the premier name in rod
construction. If you decide against a G. Loomis rod, at least feel one at
a local retail store to give you an idea of its quality in helping you to
choose a different brand.
13) "MATCH THE HATCH"...Especially when the
fishing is slow, it's very important to match the color and size of your lure
to that of the baitfish in that particular location.
14) FISH ATTRACTING STRUCTURES & OPPORTUNITIES (IN
BOTH FRESH & SALT WATER)... Look for rock piles, reefs, submerged
islands, pinnacles, ledges, wrecks and springs. Salt water targets also
include kelp & weed edges/pockets, floating debris & weed lines
(Alaskan coho salmon & Florida dolphin
[mahi-mahi] love this type of floating structure), river channel edges, river
mouths, tide or current breaks, clean water next to dirty water, docks &
bridge abutments next to deep water, flood-lit areas, deep water points, warm
water discharges in winter, standing timber and channel markers. If you
can combine several of these features, in one specific location, your success
rate will be proportionately increased. TIP: YOUR CATCH RATE WILL DRAMATICALLY
INCREASE BY VERTICAL JIGGING ON A BRIDGE OR DOCK VS CASTING TO IT!
REASON...MOST FISH POSITION THEMSELVES UNDERNEATH PROTECTIVE STRUCTURE AND WILL
NOT COME OUT OF ITS SHADOW TO CHASE A LURE THAT RAPIDLY FALLS THROUGH ITS
STRIKE ZONE. HOWEVER, BY PLACING YOURSELF ON TOP OF THAT SAME STRUCTURE, YOU
WILL CONSISTENTLY HOOK MORE FISH. ONLY VERTICAL JIGGING CONSTANTLY
MAINTAINS YOUR LURE IN THAT CRITICAL STRIKE ZONE WHICH OFTEN PROVOKES
INSTINCTIVE STRIKES!
15) COLORS & FINISHES...Match your lure finish to
the existing light and water conditions. Note: The bioluminescent
glow is a dynamic long-lasting, high-intensity finish. This
industry-leading glow finish is especially deadly in dark water, deep water and
dark days. a) Clean water on bright, sunny days: PRIMARILY
METALLIC FINISHES...GOLD (GLD), COPPER (COP), SILVER (SLV), GOLD/SILVER (GSV)
& SILVER WITH FLUORESCENT BLUE (BS) OR GREEN BACKS (KS). b) Clean
water on dark days: ALL GLOW (BLG), WHITE PEARL (WP), LIME/WHITE
PEARL (LWP), CHARTREUSE/WHITE PEARL (CWP). c) Deep or clean dark water:
SAME AS "b". d) Tea-stained water: GOLD (GLD) OR COPPER
(COP). e) Dirty water: GOLD (GLD), COPPER (COP), GOLD/GLOW WHITE
(GGW) OR ALL GLOW (BLG). f) Green, algae-tinted water: GOLD (GLD),
CHARTREUSE/WHITE PEARL (CWP) OR GREEN/SILVER (KS). g) Through the ice:
GOLD (GLD), ALL GLOW (BLG), SILVER (SLV), BLUE/SILVER (BS), CHARTREUSE/WHITE
PEARL (CWP), GOLD/GLOW WHITE (GGW), SILVER/GLOW WHITE (SGW) OR GOLD/SILVER
(GSV). h) At ice-out: GOLD (GLD), SILVER (SLV) OR WHITE PEARL
(WP). i) Water with perch forage: GOLD
(GLD). j) Water for trout: GOLD (GLD). k) Water for
kokanee: CHARTREUSE/WHITE PEARL (CWP). l) Early morning near
surface trolling, especially for salmon: ALL GLOW (BLG), LUMINOUS/WHITE
PEARL (LWP). m) Wade casting: 1/6, 1/4 & 1/3 oz
are excellent sizes for light tackle shoreline & boat casting for fresh
& salt water species. From shoreline, straight-retrieve over snaggy bottom as soon as your cast lure hits water.
The Kandlefish has a deadly swimming action, closely
duplicating the action of a live bait fish. Fish the CHARTREUSE/WHITE
PEARL (CWP) during day light and the ALL GLOW (BLG) after sunset. Excellent for bass, walleyes, redfish, seatrout, etc.
If the bottom is snag-free, then your casting options
increase to cover the entire water column. Bottom-bouncing is
a very productive retrieve option when fish are not reacting to a straight
retrieve. More details in the casting section of this guide.
NOTE: EVERY SERIOUS ANGLER SHOULD CARRY THESE
BASIC FINISHES IN THEIR TACKLEBOX: GOLD (GLD), SILVER (SLV), SILVER/GLOW WHITE
(SGW) AND WHITE PEARL (WP).
GOLD (GLD), and SILVER (SLV) would be the overwhelming two choices, for the
best metallic finishes, since they are so effective in so many different
conditions in fresh and salt water. My
personal best singular painted finish, to "fish the world", is a
fluorescent/UV yellow chartreuse back with a white pearl belly (CWP).
·
Tip: There are times when fish will
change their color preferences, throughout the day, primarily due to the sun's
direction. Never hesitate to switch colors, and change to smaller lures,
when the bite dies. Oftentimes, fish will still "snack" on
smaller offerings but not on a larger meal. NOTE: Two-sided finishes are
very productive for constantly changing daylight weather conditions. A
prime example, of a single lure being equally effective in sunny or cloudy
weather is the silver/glow white finish (SGW). Sun triggers strikes off
its silver side and the opposite glow white side triggers strikes when clouds
replace sun.
16) GEOGRAPHIC PRIMARY COLOR PREFERENCES (#1 designates the top
choice)... ALASKA: 1) White pearl with a fluorescent green (LWP) or chartreuse
back (CWP), 2) All glow (BLG), 3) White pearl (WP), Copper (COP), Cerise
[C]. PACIFIC NORTHWEST: Same as Alaska. ROCKY
MOUNTAIN REGION. 1) Gold (GLD), 2) Chartreuse/white
pearl (CWP), 3) Silver (SLV). GREAT LAKES &
CANADA. 1) White pearl with a fluorescent green (LWP) or chartreuse back
(CWP), 2) Gold (GLD), 3) Silver (SLV), 4) All glow
(BLG). ATLANTIC COAST: Same as Great Lakes & Canada. GULF OF
MEXICO: 1) Gold (GLD), 2) Chartreuse/white pearl (CWP), 3) Silver (SLV), 4)
White pearl with a fluorescent green back (LWP), 5) Copper (COP), 5) Blue
silver (BS), 6) Gold/glow white (GGW), 7) Silver/glow white (SGW). TIP: To
restore luster to a dull metallic finish, lightly rub WD-40 over its surface.
17) SIZES...A total of (12) sizes are presently
available which range from 1/6 to 6 oz. Under normal marine and weather
conditions (little or no wind), these sizes will cover depth ranges from near
surface down to 300 ft.
SIZE
LENGTH (inches) HOOK
SIZE
1/6
oz
1
5/8
#4
1/4
oz
2.0
#2
1/3
oz
2 1/8
#2
1/2
oz
2
3/8
#2
3/4
oz
2
3/4
#1
1
oz
3
1/8
#1/0
1
½ oz
3
5/8
#2/0
2
oz
4 1/4
#3/0
2
½ oz
5
1/8
#4/0
3
½ oz
6.0
#6/0
4
½ oz
6
1/8
#7/0
6
oz
7
1/8
#8/0
18)
HOOK FILES: Sharp hooks dramatically increase hook-ups! If
your hook point does not stick in your fingernail (not your skin), while
sliding it over its surface, it needs sharpening. The best sharpener is a
fine metal file that is not rusty. Lightly run the file over any
roughness from three angles. Check for sharpness throughout your day on
the water to insure optimum hook sets. Dull hooks play a major role in
missed strikes and lost fish.
From
a more informative standpoint, a textbook can actually be written about the
versatility, and effectiveness, of the Kandlefish.
As with most things in life, success comes with knowledge and "practice
makes perfect". Understanding the mechanics of your Kandlefish, and how it relates to its environment, will
enable you to proficiently fish the world! Hopefully, this guide will
help you in reaching that objective.
Our
fish resources are under extreme pressure from pollution and habitat destruction.
We need to do our part, as stewards, to protect this fragile resource for our
children and future generations. Please keep just enough fish for a fresh meal
and carefully release the rest. In many marine waters, irresponsible handling
of fish remains a problem. Scientists have proven that even moderate
mishandling, of many species of sportfish, leads to injury which eventually
results in death. It's best to use barbless, single hooks for quick
releases (crimp the barb on your K-Fish to render it barbless). Release
the fish, while still in the water, with dehooking
devices. Please do not handle fish, you plan to release, with dry hands,
gloves, towels or knotted landing nets. For many species, this is a death
sentence! One of the many positives of the Kandlefish,
is that this type of lure almost never gut-hooks a fish...unlike when bait
fishing.